The chemistry
Both perms and relaxers break disulfide bonds in hair, reshape the strand, then re-form bonds in a new pattern.
- Perm: Breaks bonds → wraps hair around rods → re-bonds into curls
- Relaxer: Breaks bonds → straightens chemically → re-bonds flat
Two chemistry types:
- Alkaline (lye/no-lye): Higher pH, stronger, faster, more damaging
- Acid / thioglycolate: Lower pH, gentler, longer processing
Both permanently restructure hair. New growth comes in natural; treated length stays treated forever.
Damage profile
Chemical restructuring:
- Raises porosity (often to high permanently)
- Weakens protein bonds (even after re-bonding, not at 100%)
- Reduces tensile strength 20–35%
- Sensitizes the scalp
- Often causes scalp irritation, sometimes burns
Combining with color or bleach compounds damage dangerously.
Before the treatment
- No coloring in the 2 weeks prior
- Deep condition 2–3 times the week before
- Skip scalp massage 24 hours before (opens follicles to irritation)
- Don't wash hair 1–2 days before (scalp oils protect)
After-care essentials
First 48–72 hours
- No washing
- No wetting
- No heat styling (hair is still "setting")
- No tight hair ties
Ongoing
- Bond-building treatment weekly for 4 weeks
- Deep moisture mask weekly
- Sulfate-free shampoo only
- Silk pillowcase
- Max 150°C heat with thermal protection
Key ingredients
Repair:
Moisture:
- Shea butter
- Argan oil
- Behentrimonium methosulfate
Avoid:
- Sulfates daily
- Alcohol denat. high in INCI
- Additional chemical treatments for 6–12 months
Scalp care after
Chemicals can leave scalp raw. Signs of trouble:
- Burning that lasts 2+ days after
- Scalp scabs or crusts
- Hair shedding from specific spots
See a dermatologist if any appear.
Growing out
When you want to stop:
Option 1: Gradual grow-out
- Trim treated length every 6–8 weeks
- Accept "transition" texture (treated + natural growth coexist)
- Rewash, style both textures carefully
- Typically 1.5–2 years until all natural
Option 2: Big chop
- Cut all treated length at once
- Short haircut, grows out as natural
- Fastest return to healthy hair
Option 3: Camouflage
- Protective styles (braids, wigs)
- Grow out hidden
- Cut when length is sufficient
Perm-specific care
Perms drop curl over time. To keep curl:
- Curl-defining leave-in on wet hair
- Scrunch with microfiber towel
- Air dry or diffuse
- Regular trim every 8 weeks (lose 1 inch annually)
Relaxer-specific care
Relaxed hair needs moisture constantly:
- Leave-in daily
- Oil seal on ends
- Moisturize scalp weekly with light oil
- Wrap or pin curl at night
Who shouldn't use these treatments
- Already bleached hair
- Already chemically colored with lift
- Damaged or breaking hair
- Sensitive scalp or scalp conditions
- Those with less than 5cm of new virgin growth since last treatment
What Mutaly adjusts
The Mutaly quiz treats relaxed/permed hair as chemically damaged and routes to intensive repair + gentle maintenance routines.