What it actually is
"Keratin treatment" covers several salon services that smooth frizz and extend blowouts. Most use a liquid formula applied to hair, then sealed with heat (230°C+) from a flat iron.
They don't add keratin in a meaningful way. They smooth and sometimes weakly straighten through:
- A cross-linking agent (often formaldehyde or glyoxylic acid)
- Heat sealing
- Protein and conditioning ingredients
The formaldehyde issue
The original "Brazilian blowout" formulas used formaldehyde. Under heat, formaldehyde releases into the air — linked to respiratory issues, cancer (classified Group 1 carcinogen by WHO). Some products still contain formaldehyde-releasers despite labeling as "formaldehyde-free":
- Methylene glycol (releases formaldehyde at high temperature)
- DMDM Hydantoin
- Quaternium-15
Rule: If it requires high heat to "set," it likely contains a releaser.
Safer alternatives
Glyoxylic acid treatments
A newer chemistry that cross-links without formaldehyde. Less dramatic result, but significantly safer. Lasts 2–3 months.
Amino acid treatments
Smooth using amino acids instead of crosslinkers. Gentlest. Short-lasting (2–6 weeks). Look for "tanino," "botox," or amino acid-based labels.
Bond-builders (at-home)
Olaplex, K18, and similar rebuild broken bonds without smoothing. Won't straighten but dramatically improves damaged-hair feel.
Who should avoid keratin
- Pregnant or breastfeeding women (formaldehyde is teratogenic)
- Anyone with asthma or respiratory issues
- Chemically damaged hair (bleach, relaxers)
- People with sensitive scalp
- Salons without proper ventilation
How to ask your stylist
- "What's the exact formula name?"
- "Is this formaldehyde-free or formaldehyde-releaser-free?"
- "What's the iron temperature?"
- "Is the salon ventilated during application?"
If the stylist can't answer all four, don't do it.
After-care for keratin
- No washing for 72 hours
- Sulfate-free, sodium-chloride-free shampoo only
- No ponytails or clips that crease hair for 3 days
- No swimming in chlorine for 1 week
- Expect 2–3 months of smoothness, gradually fading
Damage risk
Keratin treatments that use formaldehyde routinely can cause:
- Cumulative protein damage (ironic)
- Scalp irritation
- Hair thinning at hairline
- Allergic reactions developing over time
Your hair may feel great after. It's often worse in 6 months.
The realistic alternative
If frizz is your main problem:
- Fix moisture-protein balance first (most "frizz" is imbalance)
- Use humectants + sealing products correctly for your climate
- Try a botox-style or amino-acid treatment before keratin
- Consider whether the frizz is actually just damage from previous treatments
What Mutaly suggests
The Mutaly quiz flags chemically treated hair and routes you to bond-building and moisture-repair routines before any further chemical treatment.