Why assessing damage matters
Damage level determines:
- How often to protein-treat
- Whether to bond-build
- Which shampoo to use
- Heat limits
- Whether to trim or repair
Under-assessing = continued damage. Over-assessing = unnecessary protein, which creates new damage.
Five-point self-assessment
Check each:
1. Wet stretch
Pull a wet strand gently. Does it:
- Stretch and bounce back → low damage
- Stretch a lot, stay stretched → high damage (protein deficit)
- Barely stretch, snap fast → moderate damage (moisture deficit)
2. Dry feel
Run fingers through dry hair. Does it feel:
- Smooth, flowing → low damage
- Slightly rough at ends → mild damage
- Rough throughout, tangles → moderate to high
- Straw-like, breaks with touch → severe damage
3. Porosity
Drop a clean strand in water (see our porosity article). Higher porosity usually correlates with more damage.
4. Visible signs
- Split ends: How many? Under 10% (low), 10–25% (moderate), above 25% (high)
- Flyaways: Many short broken hairs = moderate to high
- Color: Dull or brassy despite products? Damage sign.
5. Chemical and heat history
- Virgin hair, minimal heat: low damage baseline
- Color-treated, some heat: mild to moderate
- Bleached, frequent heat: high damage
- Multiple chemical processes: severe
Damage levels
Level 1 — Minimal
Virgin or minimally treated. Gentle maintenance works. No protein needed usually.
Level 2 — Mild
Colored without lift, occasional heat. Monthly protein-moisture rotation. Leave-in helps.
Level 3 — Moderate
Lightened/highlighted, regular heat. Weekly Olaplex No.3, K18.">bond-builder + biweekly protein + weekly moisture.
Level 4 — High
Full bleach, regular heat without protection, over-processed. Intensive routine: bond weekly, protein every 2 weeks, moisture every wash.
Level 5 — Severe
Multiple chemical processes, visible breakage, mid-shaft splits. Often needs significant cut + 6-month repair protocol.
What to do at each level
| Level | Weekly routine |
|---|---|
| 1 | Gentle shampoo, conditioner, occasional mask |
| 2 | Sulfate-free, mask 1x/week, leave-in daily |
| 3 | Bond-builder 1x, alternate protein/moisture, heat protection always |
| 4 | Bond-builder 1x, protein 1x, moisture 1x, no heat over 150°C |
| 5 | Bond-builder 2x, significant cut, consider 6-month protocol |
When to just cut
If more than 50% of your length is at level 4–5, consider a cut. It's:
- Faster progress
- Less expensive than years of treatments
- Often a reset opportunity
Tracking progress
Take photos of wet stretch test and ends monthly. If damage isn't decreasing in 8 weeks despite your routine, adjust or see a professional.
Where Mutaly helps
The Mutaly quiz asks about chemical history, heat use, and feel — then outputs a damage level that shapes all recommendations.